| -- End Ad Box ---> | | | | Within the reactive finishes are two different types of |
| When you're done with your woodworking project, of | | | | oil finishes. These are oils that dry when exposed to air |
| course you want to protect it. A top coat protects the | | | | or oils that do not dry when exposed to air. In example |
| finish of your project, as well as the wood itself. If you | | | | of an oil that does not dry when exposed to air is |
| leave the wood (and any stain or paint you've used) | | | | mineral oil, or baby oil. Those that do dry protect would |
| as it is, it's likely to get scratched or dirty, and will also | | | | better than those that don't dry. Therefore, usually, the |
| get damaged by watermarks if it comes into contact | | | | ones that do dry should be used to finish your wood |
| with moisture. By using a good wood finish, you'll keep | | | | project. |
| your wood and its finish clean and protected, and | | | | Most often, linseed or tung oil is used to finish wood. |
| prevent it from damage, wear and tear. You can apply | | | | These are distinguished from other types of wood |
| a clear finish so as to accentuate the grain, or even | | | | products because they are "true" oils. Both penetrate |
| give it a "wet look" if you like. In general, unfinished | | | | the finish, which means that they enter the wood fibers |
| wood will develop a dull matte texture that will not | | | | themselves. Then they harden within the wood, which |
| show off the grain. | | | | makes them the easiest to apply. Simply wipe down |
| No matter the woodworking project you're working on, | | | | wood with them to allow them to penetrate the wood |
| there are two basic finishes you can apply. The first is | | | | for a few minutes, and then wipe off the excess with |
| called an "evaporated finish." With this type of finish, it | | | | a clean rag. If you apply several coats, you will not build |
| "cures" and becomes hard simply by drying. These | | | | up a hard film like you might with a varnish or lacquer, |
| types of finishes include lacquers and water-based | | | | because the film itself dries to a very soft and smooth |
| finishes. You can soften these finishes with heat; | | | | sheen. |
| therefore, they are given the name "thermoplastic." | | | | Linseed oil is made from the flax plant. The oil itself is |
| The second type of wood finish is called a "reactive | | | | pressed from the plant. It is available both in on refined |
| finish." This is cured by allowing it to react with another | | | | (also called "raw") form or in refined form. Unrefined |
| component, such as air, or with another chemical | | | | linseed oil dries quite slowly and is usually not used on |
| added just prior to the finish's application. Some | | | | wood. By contrast, boiled linseed oil is thicker and dries |
| examples of these include oils in oil-based varnishes or | | | | more quickly. Usually, the boiled linseed oils available |
| catalyzed lacquers. These types of finishes are called | | | | today also have chemical additives to speed up the |
| "thermosetting finishes." Unlike the thermoplastic | | | | drying time, which makes them much more suitable for |
| finishes, these finishes are not softened with heat or | | | | finishing wood. |
| with the original solvent used. | | | | |