| First we need pick our colors. This can be one of the | | | | Generally you will run the bull float from top to bottom |
| trickiest parts of the stamping process. There are of | | | | across the concrete overlapping each previous pass |
| course color swatches, the best way to pick your | | | | approximately 50% and then repeat the process from |
| color from a color swatch is to pick a color from the | | | | side to side. Do not worry about getting it completely |
| swatch and then go back one or two colors to get the | | | | flat, as once you begin to stamp it will not be flat at all. |
| actual color that you want. This is very similar to | | | | Do not get hung up on small dips or small elevation |
| picking out a color that you want to paint a room. | | | | changes in the concrete. Now you may begin to edge |
| There are many variables such a lighting and the other | | | | the perimeter of the concrete with an edging tool, |
| colors in the room (sofa's, rugs drapes etc.) that you | | | | again do not get hung up on doing this perfect, |
| wish to paint. How many times have you picked out a | | | | especially if this is your first time. Now you will run a |
| color at the paint store and started to paint your room | | | | fresno across your project in the same manner as the |
| and suddenly it just will not seem to match the color | | | | bull float. |
| you picked from a swatch. This is what I call perceived | | | | Now it is time to stamp your project. Prior to the |
| vision. If you can relate to what I have just mentioned it | | | | concrete truck arriving, you will want to place the liquid |
| also applies to picking out a color for your stamped | | | | release agent into a cheap garden sprayer and also |
| concrete project, there are many variables of | | | | get yourself some surface retardant and do the same. |
| perceived vision, such as sunlight and surrounding | | | | Liquid release simply allows you to place the rubber |
| colors, such as the color of your house, grass, and | | | | stamp onto the concrete without pulling off the finish of |
| landscaping. | | | | your concrete, the surface retardant will slow the set |
| Onto pouring and finishing your stamped concrete | | | | time of the concrete if you feel you are getting behind. |
| project, I suggest that you start with no more than 100 | | | | Simply spray the area you will be placing your stamp |
| square feet. First off let the concrete truck driver put | | | | and the stamp itself before you place the stamp onto |
| the color into the concrete truck for you, and let it mix | | | | the concrete. Do not spay the entire project at once |
| for at least 10 minutes. You may notice some | | | | as this will accelerate the setting time of the concrete |
| streaking of the color as it comes out of the concrete | | | | and it will more than likely dry up before you get to the |
| truck, not to worry. You will want some color | | | | end of your project. Place each stamp down and set |
| differences as this will resemble the natural colors of | | | | the next stamp snug against the stamp mat that is |
| what ever impressions or stamp that you have | | | | already on the concrete. Repeat this process until you |
| chosen for your project. For example if you look at a | | | | reach the end. |
| rock you will notice that it has many shades of the | | | | Let your project cure for about 3-5 days and it is time |
| same color and often some other colors. Your next | | | | to add secondary colors or the antique stage. For this |
| step will be to insert the concrete into your forms, you | | | | you will need to get an antique agent, I suggest you |
| will need what is called a screed board or a 2"x 4", the | | | | use charcoal or grey for your first time. You will also |
| purpose of a screed board is to level out the concrete | | | | need to get some xylene, one gallon for every 80_90 |
| inside of your forms and to also knock down the | | | | square feet. You will then add 5 tbsp. of antique agent |
| aggregate or rocks inside the cement. | | | | to the xylene in a 1 gallon garden sprayer and stir or |
| Place the wet concrete inside your form work and | | | | shake for about 45 seconds. In a circular motion spray |
| leave it about a .5" higher than the top of your forms. | | | | the secondary colors onto the stamped concrete |
| A good way to get a rough grade is to use a tool | | | | project, keeping in mind to spray some areas thicker |
| called a concrete rake or a square edged shovel. | | | | that others, while being careful not to spray it on to |
| Once you have gotten the concrete .5" above your | | | | thick, this will give you a more natural looking finish. |
| form work you can start the "screeding" process. You | | | | Let the xylene dry and apply two coats of; |
| will need someone to help you with this process. Once | | | | non-yellowing, solvent based acrylic sealant. Your |
| you have one person on each side of the screed | | | | project will be a lot darker when you apply the sealant |
| board each of you will start to pull the concrete | | | | than you anticipated, not to worry, the sealant also |
| towards the end of the form work leveling as you go | | | | needs to cure. Within a day or two it will lighted up to |
| along. At this point you will need a bull float to close the | | | | your perceived vision. |
| surface of the concrete. | | | | |